Panama
After another night of watching big ships pass us by we arrived at Panama on Sunday 27th April. We passed through the breakwater into a very large harbour then made our way to “The Flats” near the Panama Yacht Club. It is the popular anchorage used by yachts waiting to transit the Canal. After a few celebratory drinks with Greg and Dan from Cadans, we went ashore to have a look around. Within the first 10 minutes of speaking to a few cruisers, a couple of themes started to emerge. Firstly, crime in Colon is rife. Apparently an Aussie guy had been shot a couple of nights mugs trying to steal his bag. Two days after our arrival, a catamaran anchored about 50 meters away, had their 15hp outboard motor stolen from their dingy (hoisted on the davits). Needless to say, we didn’t feel safe. The second thing, was that it looked like we would be hanging around Panama for awhile. We met some cruisers that had arrived two days previously and have been given a transit date two months in the future. We were in shock. A two month delay meant that we would have to make haste across the Pacific with very few stops. We met a number of people that had been waiting for 6 weeks and it looked like the delays were getting worse.
The morning that we were due to get our transit date, I took the dingy ashore in to do the laundry. There was a buzz of excitement in the ranks. By some miraculous event, everyone had their transit dates moved forward by a month. How lucky were we!
In order to transit the canal the authority must physically measure the vessel. An official from the authority came on a pilot vessel to measure Woodsia however he didn’t board us, he just asked to meet us at the yacht club in 20 minutes. We obliged, completed some paper work and subsequently issued a transit date - 3rd June (without being measured). Only one month away. A few days past and our transit date had been moved forward (the latest date being the 24th May). We are really looking forward to getting through to the other side so we can start focusing on our trip to the Galapagos.
After four days anchored on “The Flats”, we moved to the marina located on other side of the harbour. It is a hike out of town (about 40 mins by taxi plus frequent delays when crossing the canal (Gatun Locks) but it is safe and quiet with some great amenities. It is located in a National Park so have done a few walks to check out the local wild life. There are heaps of monkeys and the odd snake. There is even a baby sloth that resides at the marina. The baby sloth was rescued after its mother was killed. He is so cute…just like a soft toy. The marina is new, secure and clean a vast contrast to the tired and worn out yacht club.
So after ten days of attacking the never ending to do list…oil changes, getting the sail bag patched, provisioning, provisioning, provisioning, we headed for the San Blas islands for a well deserved rest. We departed with little wind and motored most of the 70 nm trip stopping overnight at Portobelo and Isla Grande on the way. Portobelo was visited by Columbus in 1502 and is also where Captain Drake (the pirate) was buried. It is a beautiful bay surrounded by jungle clad hills, most of which have been fortified at some time by the Spanish. The next morning we woke to the sound of howler monkeys in the jungle. The town was a little disappointing as it is dirty and broken. Just as we left the dingy dock, some local pushed a fridge filled with rubbish into the water and set fire to it. I must say, that they are not very ecologically aware. Isla Grande was also lovely and the town is a lot cleaner. We had a great day exploring the island and stopped at the Bob Marley bar for a beer…every village in the Caribbean has one.
The San Blas are very unique and in total contrast to the jungle terrain that is prevalent for most of the Panama coast line. The first distance sighting of the San Blas was unimpressive as they are small flat islands covered in coconut trees. We made our way to Chichime Cays, one of 130 islands in the group. We had to negotiate several reefs to enter the one and only entrance. I was busy trying to take photos while Si was yelling at me to stop and look for the reefs to help navigate the
unmarked channel……….oops. As you get closer you really get the feel for what a true tropical island is; aqua water, white sands, coconut palms swaying in the wind….stunning. We got an extra surprise when we came across Miss Molly (Meryl and Geoff) anchored near by. The San Blas is owned by the indigenous Kunas. Much of their culture is unchanged from prior the Spanish Conquista. We anchored between two islands, both inhabited with several people, mostly women. They make molas as part of their traditional clothing that they wear as a sort of bodice. Molas are hand sewn patch work decorations using many different designs. These are sold to visiting yachts and provide the village with a good income. The villages are out in their canoe even before you have a chance to put your anchor down. Some women can get quiet pushy and we met some cruisers who found it an effort to keep them off their boat. Si was impressed with one guy who had his own business card and was even equipped with fenders to keep his canoe from marking the customer’s yacht. He certainly does make beautiful molas.
We spent the next six days not doing much at all. We got to know our neighbours (Kunas) who live in grass huts, we even charge their mobile phones. The locals would come around and sell fish, crays and tropical fruit. We did buy a few crays ($2.50 - $5 each) only to find out later that it is illegal as the catching of them is out of season…but they were so good. We swam, snorkelled and explored the local islands… you can walk around them in 15 minutes.
I must admit that in our laziness we did not explore any of the other areas. We figured that there was nothing else we needed. Also if we went to another island, we would get bothered by more mola sellers. One day was enough. So we eventually set sail for Colon via Isla Linton. Another gorgeous island that is close to Isla Granda. Here we met Jen and Ulf who had been cruising for 18 months and had been struck by lightning five days earlier while in the San Blas. We went ashore and had a great meal at a local restaurant run by a Dutch fellow and his Columbian wife.
A day later, we were back in Colon (Shelter Bay Marina). The marina was humming as the round the world Clipper fleet had arrived. The poor marina was close to over flowing as each Clipper yacht had at least 15 crew. The marina bar, restaurant & internet couldn't cope with the influx (normally only 2 people per cruising yacht). As they pulled out the next day, the skies opened up and rained solidly for the next 10 hours…I don’t think I have seen so much rain!!!
The next day (Monday), we headed for Panama City for a romantic getaway. We stayed in a restored boutique hotel in the old district of Panama City. It was such luxury…flushing toilet, air conditioning, no mosquitos, plasma tv and a big fluffy doona. We went to a great restaurant around the corner that did great tapas but without a menu. The food just kept on coming and coming and coming. The next day we went to the Canal museum (located next door our hotel) and were hosting a visiting Rembrandt exhibition….sensational. The rest of the day was spent at the shopping mall. We both bought a few tops to spruce up our wardrobes. I could have gone crazy at Zara’s but it is a bit hard to justify long flowing dresses and sexy silk tops. Must say that Panama is an amazing place to visit and have welcomed the opportunity to get to see some of this beautiful place. I guess there is always a next time.