After finally leaving Panama, we headed for the Las Perlas island of Isla Pedro Gonzales for a rest before heading to the Galapagos. These islands are approx 35 nm from Panama City and have plenty of wild life and greenery. We anchored in a secluded bay north of the island to avoid the southerly swell. We had two nights of perfect weather. About 500m away there was another island that is a breeding colony for pelicans and other sea going birds. So there was no lack of bird watching to be had. We took the dingy across the reef & bay to the small village. Si wanted to replace the 10 liters of diesel we had used to get there. So after a couple of attempts (first attempt produced a black oily fuel) with an audience of about 20 we managed to get our fuel. Si also picked up a few more bottles of $6 rum……..(don’t ask how much wine, rum, vodka, tequila, whisky & gin we are carrying…for bartering so we say…).

The next day we had a leisurely breakfast and decided to commence the 900nm passage to the Galapagos. It was very still and knew that we would be motoring. One thing that did surprise us was the amount of rubbish and crap in the ocean. We think it might be that it is the rainy season and a lot of debris is being washed into the ocean from the rivers. We would come across huge logs that would cause serious damage if you hit one. As we passed one of these garbage slicks, I noticed a sea turtle struggling along that had been caught in rope / net. We bought the boat around and Si managed to use the boat hook to bring the turtle to the back of the boat where he was able to cut the rope that had been tangled around his flipper. Hopefully he is Ok and his family was happy to see him.

The rest of the day was quiet amazing. The sea was so calm it was like a huge lake. We would stand up on the bow and look in the water and even see fish. We saw the biggest pod of dolphins (ever). Because the sea was so calm, you could spot them a couple of miles away. There where probably about a hundred dolphins all doing their own thing. We had a few come and play around the boat but unfortunately they didn’t stay for long. Some were really big, brown in colour with white spots. We also sighted a lot of sting rays jumping out of the water. Quiet amazing!!

The passage to the Galapagos is relatively unpredictable as you travel through the ITCZ which is the convergence zone that is responsible for the doldrums, squalls, electrical storms and torrential rain. Just for good measure we experienced them all.

The second day out started with a nice 10kt breeze. We took on about 240 litres of additional fuel on top of our existing 250 litre tank, enough to motor for approx 6 of the expected 8 day passage (depending on usage & seas). Looking at the weather charts before departing indicated that the winds would be light so we were happy that we were getting some wind…or so we thought.

The next fours days were fairly tough. The wind dropped, while the swell and current increased. Unfortunately for us, not in our favour. We motored for most of the time. Due to being prudent with fuel, we were averaging about 3kts. I don’t know how many times we put the sails up and then had to take them down again. One evening Si woke up from a nap and got all excited as there was a bit of a breeze. We put the main up (with a reef thankfully as it was dusk) and then the head sail. Suddenly we were cracking 8 knots. Within 10 minutes of reefing the head sail, we were dead in the water again.

By day three, the rain had started and has continued on and off ever since. Due to the rain we started spent the majority of time in the saloon. With the pounding of the waves the front cabin was too noisy & rocky and the aft cabin was too noisy due to engine noise so the saloon was the best alternative. This was in addition to eating and using the PC instead of Plotter in cockpit. Preparing meals was no simple task. What ever you took out of the fridge generally fell back in with the addition of any thing else that was in the vicinity. Cooking had to involve one hand as you needed the other one to hold on. 2 minute noodles or what ever you could heat up in one pot was the general cuisine. Not quiet the champagne sailing we had coming through the Caribbean Sea.

By day six we started to get some wind but due to the rain fronts, although the wind shifts were still all over the place. Day seven the winds where a lot more consistent and really saw us pick up our speed to over 6kts. Three of the slides that hold the main broke off so we have only been sailing with the head sail…still we have managed to make some good head way.

Today is day nine at sea and will reach Wreck Bay, Isla San Cristobal at about 2pm tomorrow…9.5 days at sea…yay. We had a very busy day as we made pizza (…its Sunday..) and coconut pie to celebrate the crossing of the equator. The coconut pie was a little too adventuress and amazing that either of us didn’t end up wearing it. Both our shoulders were aching after the ordeal of trying to hang on. In the end it was well worth it. We crossed the equator around 6:45pm. We had a couple of little bottles of champagne to toast Neptune who was very appreciative of the coconut pie. Let’s hope he liked it enough to provide fair winds for the remainder of the trip. Mmm maybe I shouldn’t have given him the burnt bits.

Before signing off, I have to give special mention to our friends and stowaways that kept up along the way:

• Larry the Lizard: a green lizard we found onboard at Les Perlas. We can’t find Larry so we assume he jumped over board…can lizards swim?
• Jumping Squid: Minding my own business when something lops itself over my shoulder into the cockpit. It was a squid, one of several that landed on the boat that night…since when so squid jump?
• Ghost birds: Since leaving Les Perlas, we have several big sea birds that fly around the boat each night. The have white bodies and dark (possibly grey) heads that illuminate at night. They are fascinating to watch. What I want to know have they been the same birds for the entire trip?
• Lastly, Berty our stowaway who was a sweet little sea bird that last night got to close to the boat, hit her wing and lande. She rested for the day, stayed for the equator party, ate coconut pie (didn’t let her drink as she was flying) and flew away shortly after dark.